What Does Hard Pruning Mean?


Man hard pruning his red twig dogwood shrub

As a seasoned grower or newbie, there’s undoubtedly nothing that would bring you more joy than seeing your plants flourish under your care. Of course, that’s why you’re reading this right now. Given, there are many practices that you’ll need to learn in your journey to achieve this; and one of these such practices is hard pruning/rejuvenation pruning.

What is hard pruning? It is defined used primarily when referring to shrubs, as in the cutting of main stems of a large shrub to about 6-12″ above the ground so as to promote vigorous growth of newer and healthier stems. It is also a method of pruning fruit trees such as apple/pear down to 3 buds for structure.

As simple as that definition may seem, there are quite a few factors to consider before deciding whether hard pruning actually works for you.  So, what exactly do you need to know?    

Can All Plants Undergo Hard Pruning? 

The answer to this question is, not exactly.     

Rejuvenation Pruning is a ‘High-Stress Technique’ (H.S.T), meaning its practice could have adverse effects on   the plant if not carried out carefully and on the right plant.

Unlike other gardening techniques, it is only suitable for woody plants; specifically, vigorous growing shrubs and trees.

It works best on multi-stemmed, twiggy shrubs and trees. If a plant has only one single main stem, hard pruning is surely not the way to go.

Some examples of plants that would benefit from it are:  

  • Honeysuckle 
  • Spirea
  • Dogwood
  • Lilac
  • Forsythia
  • Buddleia
  • Potentilla
  • Viburnums
  • Mock orange
  • Rugosa roses 
  • and many more

Why Should I Carry Out Hard Pruning?    

Have you been noticing weird shapes and crowding on the shrubs on your lawn? Does the tree in your back yard seem to have unusual bends?    

Well, when left unattended for a long period of time, shrubs and trees tend to form dormant buds that cause them to stunt in growth and/or alter their shapes.

Hard pruning, on the other hand, stimulates growth in these dormant buds encouraging the formation of new stems and shoots. Essentially, it’s how your plants heal and restore their form.

For plants notable for their colorful stems and flowers, especially, rejuvenation brings about growth of brighter and much colorful stems and flowers. One good example is the red-twig dogwood.        

What should I consider before Hard pruning?    

So, you’ve decided to rejuvenate your shrub and are wondering, is it the right time?    

Well, timing is everything. Since you want your plants to have enough room to regrow their shoots and stems with minimal stress, pruning in early spring is your best bet for evergreen plants.

If you’re, however, dealing with deciduous plants, autumn/winter would prove to be just as perfect a time.

Other than the timing of pruning, you’d also want to consider the condition of your plant.

Firstly, since hard pruning is a high-stress technique, very old plants may not be able to survive the process or grow new shoots.

Diseased plants are also as vulnerable as old plants. So, to be on the safe side, try and nurse the plant back to health before considering hard pruning.

If you’re planning on hard pruning grafted plants, don’t cut below the graft union, usually 15cm above the ground, as this would most likely stunt its growth.

Last but not least, due to its stressful nature, rejuvenation should be carried out only after 3 to 5 years depending on the type of plant. Doing it too soon or too often could end up weakening your shrub making it more susceptible to pests and diseases or even death.

How Is Hard Pruning Done?

When it comes to the process itself, how it’s done for trees slightly differs with the methodology for shrubs.

Trees

With trees, the larger they are, the harder the task. You can carry out the process yourself for smaller trees but it advisable to seek a professional if the work to be done is much more extensive.

If you’re looking to correct lopsided growth, the process would entail 2 steps:

1ST YEAR – Since there is a stronger and weaker side to the tree, prune the tips off the longest branches on the stronger side first. Then hard prune the diseased and damaged stems on the weaker side reducing their length by about half.

2ND YEAR ONWARDS – Remove weak stems that might be crossing with other stems to prevent them from rubbing and encourage growth so that both the weaker and stronger sides even up. After a few years of growth, you can resume normal trimming.

If your goal, however, is the total renovation of a tree, you should:

1ST YEAR – Prune out all the diseased, damaged and crossing branches including any suckers from the tree base.

2ND YEAR – Get rid of all congested growth to create space while also shortening the overgrown branches to encourage a more even shape.

3RD YEAR – The process is similar to the one in year 2 with the goal here still being to reduce congestion and evening up the tree’s overall shape.

Overall, the difference between renovating a tree and correcting lopsided growth is that during renovation, only a maximum of 2 main branches should be plucked out each year.

Shrubs

If shrubs are more your thing, you have two options at your disposal.      The safest bet would be to carry out the entire process in about 3-4 stages. However, if you’re short on time and feel your plant has the capacity to recover well, you can hard prune in one go. 

For the renovation in one go, you would:

1ST YEAR – Remove the side stems so as to get better access to the main stem. Horizontally cut the main branches and stems up to 30-60 cm above the ground level.

2ND YEAR – Thin the new growth to at least 3 strong stems which will, in turn, form the main support system for the plant. For grafted plants, any suckers growing from the rootstock should be removed.

3RD YEAR ONWARDS – Continue with normal trimming and pruning.

If you’re, however, looking to do it in stages, you would:

1ST YEAR – Remove half the stems at ground level (at least 3 inches and below) prioritizing on diseased, old, damaged, congested and crossing branches.

2ND YEAR – Remove the remaining half of old stems and branches while also thinning out the new growth from the previous year’s pruning. Overgrown branches and stems can be trimmed down to bring about a more even look.

3RD YEAR – Remove all the remaining old stems, including the shortened ones while also thinning out the new growth from the previous years.

4TH YEAR ONWARDS – Continue with your normal trimming and pruning.

Remember, the pruning of both trees and shrubs will require appropriate tools, depending on the size of course. Pruning saws and loppers are a good basic start. Ensure all cutting tools are sharp enough to prevent plant injury during the cutting process.

Are There Any Risks Associated With The Hard Pruning Process?

Yes, just like any gardening technique, there are a few risks associated with hard pruning.

For starters, extremely aggressive pruning of the good wood could run the risk of damaging the plant which in turn may cause permanently stunted growth or worse.

Also, after you’ve trimmed your bush/tree, an open wound is essentially what is left which may allow pests and other foreign organisms to cause diseases.

If you’re dealing with trees, primarily large ones, you’d have to factor in various safety concerns, especially if you live in a neighborhood. Pruning off large stems could cause property damage and may require licenses in some places.

What Should I Do After Hard Pruning?

Just like a newborn, your rejuvenated plant will require quite a lot of care both during and after the pruning process. Doing this well goes a long way in averting some of the risks mentioned earlier.

Ideally, the first thing you need to provide in abundance is water. Considering the high-stress nature of the process, plants require a lot of water to help them in the recovery process. If the weather is hot and dry, especially, remember to water at least twice or thrice a day if need be.

The next thing you need to take care of is your soil fertility. If your plants are growing in an area where the soil fertility is not that good, consider adding a thick layer of well-rotted compost to improve this.

The manure not only improves fertility, it also facilitates better drainage and overall root growth. Try and avoid opting for synthetic fertilizers since they can force weak overall growth of the stems harming the plant in the long run.

Finally, keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Remember the plant wounds? Check on them from time to time for signs of infection and act quickly if you notice any worrying signs. Depending on what infection it may be, it would be advisable to consult with your local agronomist to get a better diagnosis and thus handle the situation better.

Conclusion

So, there you have it. Your step by step guide to everything you need to know about rejuvenation pruning.

Although it may sound a bit technical at first, you’ll likely get the hang of it with time.

Do you think its what you need? Do you feel well equipped to take on the task?

Well, hopefully, you are. Good luck in your gardening endeavors!

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